One of my favourite films is The Spirit of the Beehive, directed by the Spaniard Victor Erice in 1973, in the dying days of the Franco regime. In an early scene, a travelling exhibitor arrives in a small Castillian town in the 1940s bearing a print of James Whale’s Frankenstein. That evening the film is screened to an audience of gaping rustics in the peeling, nondescript building that passes for the town’s cinema. As the two young girls who will be at the centre of the drama puzzle over the meaning of the images on the screen, the dark, empty streets of the town echo with the ghostly crackle of the film’s soundtrack.
I was reminded of this scene earlier this year when staying for a few days in Broome, Western Australia. Even by Australian standards, Broome is remote. Bordered on three sides by hundreds of miles of parched desert, and on the fourth by a wide, blue Indian Ocean that stretches uninterrupted all the way to Sumatra, it occupies one of the last stretches of Australia’s coast to be colonised by Europeans. When the Europeans (and Asians) arrived in the 1870s and ’80s, it was to dive for pearls. Broome was built on a swamp and for much of its history had a reputation as a hard-living, buccaneering, mosquito-slapping kind of town.
My girlfriend and I arrived at night and, wandering around the sparsely-lit and almost deserted streets, began to hear voices, deep and resonant and disembodied. As we got closer to the centre of town, a flash of neon gave the game away. We were passing Sun Pictures, the world’s oldest operating open-air cinema.



